Bon Internationals redaktionschef Sabrina Shim listar minnesvärda modeögonblick från kommande våren och sommaren 2015, som visades under Londons herrmodevecka.
Craig Green made nearly everyone in attendance cry during his first solo show (he was under the MAN umbrella the last few seasons). Indeed, the collection was deeply moving – his “Bannermen” literally floated down the catwalk thanks to the multitude of tie-ups left undone yet were grounded in strong shapes (voluminous warrior-like jackets and trousers or body-con tops with cut-outs).
A year ago, Craig Green was mocked by model (and British Fashion Council ambassador) David Gandy on national television. But Green has now had the last laugh. He was the star of London, with easily the best collection of the season, while Gandy looked terribly dated and rather gauche parading around the rest of the shows.
I have a soft spot for this father-son duo, but there’s no need for such sentimentality when they deliver a formidable collection like this one. Notions of sportswear, anarchy and formalwear were fluid, giving rise to standout pieces such as the jackets that fused a bomber jacket with a long parka and a deconstructed Chesterfield coat.
Overall, there was a balance of novelty and tradition that had men (and women like me who wear menswear) mentally compiling a shopping list during the finale.
For those who want the “out-there” fashion London is (in)famous for, there are always plenty of options, such as Sibling. But the kooky trio went one step further for S/S 2015 and created a collection that once broken apart from the styling – and devoid of Leigh Bowery giant pom-poms – was surprisingly wearable. Sure, the eyelash jumpers might be for far braver souls, but check out the rest of the knitwear (Sibling’s specialty).
A big-up to Bon International’s editor-in-chief, Daniel Björk, who was called upon to review LC:M for Style.com this season. It’s no small feat to see a show then immediately write up an analytical and erudite review that also happens to be a delight to read, so kudos Mr Björk!
My first reaction to J.W.Anderson? I love the plush, pink carpeting. Then: I could wear that scoop-neck, cropped cable-knit jumper. And that louche tunic with the knotted ties. Pussy-bow blouse, why not? Oh wait, I’m at the menswear show… and therein lies the gender-bending allure of J.W.Anderson to the fashion crowd. In a city chock full of streetwear or Savile Row, it’s refreshing to see something that really challenges and questions the ideas of what menswear really is.
Also of note – the quality of the clothes were much higher, no doubt in part of LVMH’s investment in the label last autumn.
Often eschewing the catwalk for a presentation, Jonathan Saunders’s menswear outing nevertheless managed to pack the first floor of the Old Sorting Office for a lively yet intimate affair. But a presentation is the correct format to appreciate all the details a runway camera simply cannot capture – lamé bonded on fabric that looks like a pattern from afar, stripes stitched together, newly developed mesh yarns, etc.
He also mixed in his women’s resort collection, a clever move not only for logistical and economic reasons, but more for the fact it emphasised the harmonious and technically-advanced world Jonathan Saunders inhabits.
Jeremy Scott och Tiger of Sweden