”It’s a hard gig these days balancing commerciality and creativity, and while I feel Paglialunga hasn’t quite worked out what this means to him or Jil Sander for the 2010s and beyond, there was a glimmer of hope with this collection.”
After debuting last season for Jil Sander to mixed reviews, Rodolfo Paglialunga either had a lot of work to do or would be suffering from second album syndrome. No matter which camp you fell into, in both instances, A/W 2015 wasn’t ever going to be easy for the former creative director of Vionnet and womenswear design director of Prada. Adding to his woes is the fact that fashion isn’t exactly the temple of minimalism it used to be. Oh, and there is still the small matter of having been left in a massive wake created by Jil Sander herself and, of course, Raf Simons.
So how do you solve a problem like Jil Sander? Paglialunga is obviously very good at precise cuts but there was a languid feel across the entire collection that was really appealing – long coats loosely belted somewhere between the waist and hips, slip dresses, coat dresses and roomy trousers. Diagonal stripes and criss-crossed lines were the only adornment, save for the coat of Look 7, which incidentally is my favourite piece. The colour palette was a sensible navy, black and cream with shots of forest green, yellow, red and powder pink. It was all very wearable… and very buyable.
And there’s the rub – buyers are no doubt swooning about the fact that Jil Sander is just so darn wearable again, while the press, by and large, feel underwhelmed because it didn’t exactly propose any new ideas for the brand and fashion design in general. It’s a hard gig these days balancing commerciality and creativity, and while I feel Paglialunga hasn’t quite worked out what this means to him or Jil Sander for the 2010s and beyond, there was a glimmer of hope with this collection.