”Jonathan Anderson made the 1980s not only look unbelievably good, but also, for lack of a better word, cool.”
Finally. The nut fashion designers have been trying to crack for awhile now was torn open with surprising sophistication by Jonathan Anderson for Loewe on Friday. We’re talking the 1980s here, that gloriously garish and decadent decade known for large hair, large shoulders and tiny waists, fabrics that posed as fire hazards and multiple ill-advised pleats around the hip area.
This season alone, the 80s has played muse to several designers to disastrous effect – most notably with Balmain and Anderson’s eponymous label, funny enough – because they were straight-up regurgitations of that tacky era and nothing else. The result was that the clothes looked terribly retro.
But for Loewe, the collection was more about capturing the fun and harnessing the power of the 80s shoulder than simply transporting looks right out of decade. Sure, the oversized blouson jackets or jumpers and lamé pleated skirts were the most literal iterations, but accompanied by roomy, high-waisted trousers in tweed and interspersed by lab coats cut in the most buttery leather imaginable, Jonathan Anderson made the 1980s not only look unbelievably good, but also, for lack of a better word, cool.
For all the rumblings about Jonathan Anderson as a designer (see Bon’s interview for the S/S 2015 here), he has hit a rich vein of form with this new collection. It bodes well not only for the resurrection of Loewe as a brand, but also cements Anderson’s place as one of the cleverest in the industry.