”It was all meant to be a comment on the ‘variation of beauty’, the real and the fake, the natural and the modified.”
One of fashion’s favourite parlour games is to look for clues before a show. It could be the invite, the set, a certain colour palette, or in the case of Prada, all of the above plus the drinks and nibbles. Pastel green and pink were the colours of choice, and as I bit into the various hors d’oeuvres (yes, I had several, I couldn’t resist), I kept thinking of the word “spongey”, which proved to be quite prophetic in retrospect.
Using the same set as the menswear – though the black was replaced by the pastel green and pink – there was an air of familiarity. As the show started, with Disney’s Fantasia serving as the soundtrack, the sweet/subversive shtick Prada has always been know for, also become apparent. But we all know by now it’s never that superficial with Miuccia. Sure, modish trouser suits, babydoll silhouettes and opera-length gloves featured prominently, anchored by pointy toe shoes with chunky heels. But the materials made them other-worldly and were the real star of the show. What appeared to be a more marshmallow-like neoprene (“spongey”) was actually some kind of double-face jersey. Ostrich leather and tweedy wool provided a sturdy backdrop for the perspex and gemstone brooches or embellishment. The 60s cocktail dresses in particular screamed socialite, but there was also something very bad ass and modern about them when rendered in that spongey fabric.
It was all meant to be a comment on the “variation of beauty”, the real and the fake, the natural and the modified. While I personally wish “variation of beauty” had also translated into more models of ethnic diversity, I can appreciate that Miuccia Prada seemed more interested in beauty at a molecular level – literally – for this season, as evidenced by the print. Which makes me wonder, if where Miuccia goes, others follow, and given the general talk around wearable technology, 3D printing and the like, will science somehow finally become the new bedfellow of fashion?